Friday 22 February 2013

Sri Lanka 4


                                                      

Leaving  port on a powerful pleasure boat at dawn sounds idyllic. Tackling an 8 foot swell however, changes your mind pretty quickly and with a 2 hour journey ahead the casualties came thick and fast. The biggest Chinese guy I have ever seen lasted 15 mins before his breakfast reappeared and he spent the next 4 ½ hours talking to a carrier bag, chameleon- like, changing  from yellow to green and back again.

The rules of whale watching are pretty easy. Twelve or fifteen boats, ranging from small fishing ribs to a huge naval tug, corral in a circle about half a mile wide, some 18 miles off shore, just beyond the international shipping lanes. Everyone is on the lookout  for a tell tale puff of spray as Mr Whale pops up for breath and with the first sighting a huge cry goes up and all hell breaks loose as simultaneously everyone sets off at full speed towards the unsuspecting giant.

 I am sure that I have read or heard of the blue whale’s ability to pick up fellow whales calls from the other side of the planet that being the case, our little flotillas excited reaction to his arrival probably scared him half to death.

If you are lucky enough to be aboard one of the closest, or fastest vessels,  you get to see the crest of the back of this huge beast cruise gracefully through the waves during the 3 or 4 mins it takes him to recharge before heading down to the depths for another half an hour. If not, you charge all the same, resigned to the fact that you will not be winning an international wildlife photography prize this time, and hope you are in a more fortunate starting position for the next appearance.

The grail here is to see, or better still, try and take a photo or video of, his enormous tail as he dives, but the odds are against you. Not only is the boat rocking and rolling as it powers ever closer, but also the photographic vantage points are limited and the best ones have been reserved, since we set out from port, by people who  guard them jealously.

 Additionally, in this instance, size really matters! My camera was purchased with a round the world trip in my mind, robust, compact and multipurpose but certainly not specifically for wildlife photography. Whereas every male Japanese passenger on board has a telephoto lens like a downpipe on a bungalow with which they could probably have seen the tail from shore, in fact one guy, who also had a tripod and rucksack full of photographic gizmos, could probably have seen it from Japan!!

We were quite lucky to have sighted 4 whales on our excursion, two of which we were close enough to see without squinting, and, although it won t win a prize, I got a two second video clip of a tail majestically arch out of the sea      ..........................    RESULT!!!!  An awesome experience, but I’m afraid that the technicalities of getting the clip on here at the moment means that you will have to wait for the evidence.                                

At the end of the day I can liken it to watching a Welsh forward, at the other end of a pre floodlight Twickenham fall over the line for a try. I had no idea who scored or even what had happened, but I saw something through the gloom that delighted me and remember it, cos I was there.

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